#Paris2024: Mossi Traoré, creator of the first free haute couture school in the Parisian suburbs

Mossi Traoré, a child of the Parisian suburbs, created the first completely free haute couture school, with parts of his workshops and school, Ateliers Alix, located in Villiers-sur-Marne, in the Val-de-Marne (94) department. A committed creator, Traoré’s practice reaffirms, in this interview, that fashion is a “social expression” in which each person blends his or her influences and origins.

In a few words, how would you define your brand and your approach? 

Mossi Traoré: I have a high-end ready-to-wear brand that balances between prestige and craftsmanship, yet it remains very urban and contemporary. We also aim to make fashion more accessible and innovative, particularly by working with the fabrics of the future. We’ve been showcasing Paris Fashion Week for several years now and have notably received the Pierre Bergé Prize from ANDAM. (international award for young fashion designers)

Indeed, the fashion industry faces criticism for its carbon footprint. How have you addressed concerns about the fashion industry’s carbon footprint? 

Mossi Traoré: We collaborate with four industries to make both fashion and our brand cleaner. We work with construction soil industries to recycle and create new textiles. We produce leather from milk casein. We’re also developing fabrics of the future using household waste, such as textile fibre from mattresses. Another significant industry we engage with is rubber. The idea is to reinvent both the economic model and the fashion industry itself to offer new consumption patterns. 

You have traveled around the world. Are these journeys a source of inspiration for you? 

Mossi Traoré: Like many creators, I believe travelling helps individuals build themselves – nourish, meditate, and reflect – and it certainly aids me in my creative work. I enjoy observing the streets and their differences in countries I’ve visited, especially in India. I typically go there once or twice a year to soak in the atmosphere and observe the flowing fabrics. 

I personally appreciate cultural diversity and enjoy confronting my own culture with others’. I like to draw inspiration from different cultures while paying homage to them. Celebrating what inspires me and engaging with the world is not just useful but essential for professions like mine. 

Your activities are divided into two parts: your brand, Mossi, and, on the other hand, your haute couture school, Ateliers Alix. How did the desire to found Ateliers Alix come about?  

Mossi Traoré: I am a huge fan of a couturier named Madame Grès, also known as Alix Grès. I always had in mind that I would pay homage to her someday. Then, I met a seamstress who had worked with Madame Grès: Josette Thomas, an extraordinary woman and a master haute couturier, and recognised as one of the best artisans in France. She became my greatest mentor in fashion. She instilled in me a love for couture, with her unmatched passion and dedication to the industry. 

Madame Thomas mentored many young people, passing on her knowledge and tirelessly working to preserve French haute couture. She was a pivotal figure, fighting against academic skepticism that deemed haute couture as outdated. Today, when I observe the level of our students, I realise she was absolutely right to fight so hard.

Therefore, this school is a tribute to these two women. Haute couture still captures hearts and imaginations today. I am committed to making this dream accessible to everyone. 

So, you are the founder of the first tuition-free haute couture school, located in the suburbs of Villiers-sur-Marne, where you grew up. Was it important for you to give this opportunity to young people from the suburbs? 

Mossi Traoré: It’s incredibly important to me. I come from immigrant parents, I am from the suburbs, and I am Muslim. I know firsthand how challenging it can be to find a place in a prestigious fashion school that costs over 10,000 euros per year. Ateliers Alix is the only school offering haute couture training through an apprenticeship of excellence. And maintaining this standard of quality is crucial. And, at the same time, I want to give the opportunities that I didn’t have to young generations . 

Twelve students are admitted each year and trained in small groups. The programme lasts for three years, totaling 36 students annually. It’s important that we can offer beautiful opportunities to people from the suburbs, not just in central Paris. Today, we talk about Greater Paris as a hub for artistic, cultural, economic, and innovative projects. I want Ateliers Alix to help democratise these kinds of initiatives. 

It’s fulfilling to propose and share a project where you grew up, which benefits future generations. There’s a unique sense of recognition and gratitude in that. Today, we’ve created an inclusive school that promotes social and professional integration in the suburbs. Importantly, our students are entering prestigious French houses like Dior, Chanel, and Pierre Cardin. 

You often say that “fashion is a means of social expression”. What do you mean by that? 

Mossi Traoré: When I say that “fashion is a means of social expression,” it is because someone’s style of dress often defines their social status. Through clothing choices, we aim to portray a certain posture or role. Clothing is integral to the concept of social status. 

Fashion is also a means of social expression because it has a significant social impact. It remains one of the leading economies in France, generating numerous jobs and influencing many aspects of people’s lives. With all these dimensions, fashion allows for the communication of messages, demands, and even frustrations. It serves as a powerful microphone with both local and international reach. 

What does “making the invisible visible” mean to you? 

Mossi Traoré: As I have mentioned, I come from immigrant parents, I am from the suburbs, and I am Muslim. Finding one’s place with these labels isn’t easy. My father was a garbage collector for the City of Paris and never experienced unemployment. When I see the lack of recognition given to our parents, I feel that France is ungrateful. That’s why I try to honour the invisible, in every way I can. We created pants for the female garbage collectors of the City of Paris. It gives a new image to this profession, which is often overlooked. 

But even in the fashion industry, we too often forget about the people behind the scenes. Without the seamstresses and tailors in the workshops, France would not have been recognised as a great country of haute couture. Without them, there would be no designers. So, I like to pay tribute and say thank you to inspiring and essential people who work in the shadows. 

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Key Figures:

36. The total number of students at Ateliers Alix. The training programme spans 3 years, with 12 students admitted per year. 

20,000. In tons, the amount of textile waste discarded in Paris annually. 

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